913 kilometrů, 17 hodin jízdy, nespočet nových setkání a velké očekávání nás dotáhlo z Jodhpuru až do hlavního města indického státu Maharaštra. Bombaj, čtvrté největší město na světě s více jak 20 miliony obyvatel je centrem ekonomiky a průmyslu celé země.
Bombaj je domov filmového průmyslu Bollywood, perfektní místo pro sledování kriketu a návštěvu tamních nočních podniků. Najdete tu jak luxusní restaurace, tak i rodinná bistra či pouliční stánky. Indická kuchyně je zde různorodá a vyhlášená, a oproti špinavému Dillí, se Bombaj může pyšnit upravenými bulváry a krásnými koloniálními budovami.
Doprava
Cestovat po městě se dá nejjednodušeji příměstskými vlaky. Metro je už několik let ve výstavbě a dokončení se předpokládá až v roce 2021. Vyznat se v jízdních řádech vlaků je alespoň prvních pár dní zcela nemožné. Zeptejte se místních, kteří moc dobře vědí, odkud kam jednotlivé vlaky jezdí a rádi vám poradí.
Pozor si musíte dát zejména na přestupních stanicích. Stovky Indů ještě za jízdy vyskakují a nastupují do vlaku a doprava má jediné pravidlo, kdo dřív nastoupí, ten jede. Vlak se vždy dělí na tři části: první třída, druhá a pro ženy. Jízda vlakem je adrenalin a zcela běžně se vám může stát, že budete ve druhé třídě vyset z vagónu nebo se po vás bude válet celá indická rodina.
Na každé stanici se nachází nespočet stánků s levným a výborným občerstvením. Přesně naopak nežli u nás. Například si můžete během čekání pochutnat na čerstvě vymačkané mrkvové a řepové šťávě (10 INR), nebo na indickém hamburgeru vada pav (cca 20 INR).
Ubytování
Poprvé za náš pobyt v Indii jsme zavítali do Mac Donaldu. Nepřišli jsme se ale zaplácnout fast foodovým jídlem (musím se přiznat, že mě lákalo ochutnat vegetariánský big mac cheese burger), jak to dělá mnoho turistů, ale zařídit si ubytování.
Bombaj je nejdražší město Indie a to se podepsalo i na cenách hostelů. Nejlevnější ubytování se pohybuje okolo 800 INR za apartmán nebo cca 500 za lůžko v odděleném dormu. Naštěstí je zde spousta zajímavých hostitelů přes couchsurfing, kteří vám ukáží, co všechno Bombaj dokáže.
Bombajské speciality
V Bombaji se mísí kulinářské speciality celé země, ale stejně jako všude jinde, i zde narazíte na vyhlášené místní pokrmy. Asi nejznámějším jídlem je vegetariánský hamburger vada pav a pokrm zvaný pav bhaji – zelenina v kořeněné omáčce s cibulí a limetkou, podávaná opět s měkoučkou houstičkou pav. Na to jak moc je bombajská kuchyně proslulá, mě nenadchl pokrm zvaný bhelpuri, ale zkusit se má všechno.
Zejména během horkých dní, je populární lahůdka zvaná falooda. Jedná se o jakýsi dezert v podobě studeného nápoje z mléka, zmrzliny, sirupu z růže, nudlí a kuliček tapioka, často podávaný s tradiční zmrzlinou kulfi.
Nakupování
Bombaj je nákupním rájem. Najdete tu vše, od těch nejluxusnějších butiků až po pouliční vetešárny. Mě zajímal místní market, Crowford, se zbožím všeho druhu u krásné mešity Jama Masjid. Market nabízí sice pěkné zboží, ale jediné jsem si na marketu koupila, byla placka masala papad, šťávu z cukrové třtiny a sendvič. I obyčejný sendvič na ulici, zde dostává náležitou péči. Toust nacpaný zeleninou, kořením a podávaný s omáčkami je další z mnoha výborných svačin po městě.
Co neminout
Musím přiznat, že mě Bombaj okouzlila. Čekala jsem větší, zalidněnější, špinavější a hlučnější Dillí. Opak se stal pravdou. Krásné čisté centrum sice kontrastuje se slumy na okrajových částech města, ale atmosféra je zde daleko vřelejší. Pokud máte v plánu návštěvu památek, muzeí a parků, vyhněte se pondělí, kdy je všechno zavřené.
1. Brána Indie
Hlavní a nejslavnější dominantou Bombaje je kamenná stavba, které se říká brána Indie. Byla postavena na počest návštěvy krále spojeného království a císaře Indie, Jiřího V. Dodnes tato brána vítá cestovatele mířící k indickým břehům.
Okolí brány je ideálním místem na nákupy, ať v kamenných obchodech anebo přebírání zboží naházeného u cesty na dece.
2. Nádraží Churchgate
V okolí hlavního nádraží můžete obdivovat nejenom nádhernou koloniální architekturu, ale i nejznámější hru Indie – kriket. Dodnes netuším, jaké má hra pravidla, ale se sklenicí šťávy z cukrové třtiny jsem chvíli nadšeně fandila pobíhajícím Indům.
Bollywood
Obecně lze říci, že bollywoodské filmy jsou béčka, ale s velkým B. Scény jsou nabité efekty, neuvěřitelnými bojovými scénami, které vás zaručeně nenechají chladnými, a návštěva kina se tak stává nezapomenutelným zážitkem. Indické kino vás překvapí nejenom moderním vybavením, ale i svojí atmosférou – hulákání, pískání a podpora hlavního hrdiny je slyšet po celém sále, stejně tak i hlučný smích při povedených vtipných scénkách.
Nemusíte být pouze fandy tohoto žánru, ale dokonce si i v indickém trháku můžete zahrát. Po celé zemi se každou chvíli točí nové bollywoodské filmy a komparz, zejména cizinci, jsou vždy vítáni. Dokonce si spousta cizinců tímto způsobem přivydělává na cestování.
3. Bombajské pláže
Bombaj je také nejdůležitějším přístavním městem, kde se nachází i několik písčitých pláží. Na písčitých promenádách sice potkáte davy Indů, kteří si tu užívají zasloužený klid, ale nikoho neuvidíte se koupat. Místní také vědí proč. Voda je špinavá a silně zapáchá. Koupání si raději nechte až do státu Goa.
Ze stanice Churchgate jezdí sdílené tax za 11 INR, které vás doveze na nejvyhlášenější promenádu – Marina drive. Jinak krásný výhled ruší opar smogu a moře plné odpadků, kam si sem tam zajde Ind vykonat potřebu. Pokud bude vítr vát správným směrem, jedná se o příjemnou procházku až k pláži Chowpatty. Doporučuji se schladit nápojem falooda a autobusem č. 108 vyrazit ke starověké vodní cisterně Banganga tank, která je součástí chrámového komplexu.
4. Stanice Mahalaxmi
Nejde tak ani o stanici, ale o kousek dál vzdálenou část – největší prádelnu s lidským pohonem na světě. Zajímavostí je, že zde pracují pouze muži. Přičemž každý jednotlivec vypere denně přes tisíc kusů prádla. Jedná se o průmyslovou prádelnu, tedy pouze pro hotely, nemocnice atd.
5. Bandra
Bandra je okrajová část města, kam se moc cestovatelů nepodívá. Výjimkou jsou nadšenci do jógy, jelikož v této části se pořádá nespočet kvalitních a levných lekcí. Ať sem již zamíříte z jakéhokoliv důvodu, musíte se zastavit u stánku s rychlým občerstvením, hnedka u hlavního východu ze stanice Bandra. Zdejší mangové smoothie mě podávali řetězem! Jedná se bezesporu o nejlepší smoothie, jaké jsem v životě měla a to v přepočtu za 7 korun.
V okolí Bandry se nachází nespočet vyhlášených restaurací s cenami jako v pouličních stáncích. Překvapivě si zde vybere jak vegetarián, tak i masožravec. Město zde tepe životem a až do pozdních hodin jsou všechny restaurace a bary přeplněné k prasknutí. Není se čemu divit, toto je ta pravá tvář města. Mezi okolními čtvrtěmi se lze jednoduše přesouvat tuk tukem a to dokonce se zapnutým taxametrem. Nejprve jsme nemohla uvěřit vlastním očím. Taxametr v Indii, to snad není možné, ale je tomu opravdu tak. Takže poprvé za celou dobu v Indii jsme nemuseli tvrdě smlouvat o cenu (cca 1 km/10 INR).
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