Národní park Lagodekhi se nachází v kraji jménem Kachetie, ve východní části Gruzie, na jižním svahu Velkého Kavkazu u hranic s Ruskem a Ázerbájdžánem, kde končí jedny z nekrásnějších turistických tras. Není tedy divu, že Lagodekhi je nejstarší chráněnou oblastí v celém Kavkazu a bývalém Sovětském svazu, založenou již roku 1912 sčítající 24 451 ha. Lagodekhi si dodnes zachovává unikátní, lidmi nedotčenou přírodu, kde mohou návštěvníci obdivovat nekonečné lesy, horská jezera, vodopády, hluboká údolí, dech beroucí výhledy na přilehlé velikány a zároveň pozorovat divoký život místní fauny.

Doprava do Lagodekhi

Každý den odjíždí maršrutky nebo sdílené taxi z Tbilisi ze stanice Isani za cca 8 – 10 GEL. Pokud pojedete taxíkem, nechte se vysadit u návštěvnického centra, což je hlavní vstupní brána do národního parku. Odtud už budete muset pokračovat po svých nebo jízdou na koni.

Nejprve je třeba se nahlásit a ochotný personál vám rád poradí, zapůjčí vybavení, či mapku se všemi turistickými trasami. Za nocleh v NP se platí symbolický poplatek 5 GEL za stan + další poplatky, pokud si budete chtít půjčit vybavení (stan, spacák, krosnu…). Nasnadě je i přenocování v meteorologické stanici Lagodekhi v nadmořské výšce 2 000 m. n. m. za poplatek 15 GEL.

Lagodekhi nabízí dohromady 5 stezek od nenáročných pár hodinových procházek, po velmi náročné několikadenní výšlapy. A jak tomu bývá zvykem, tou nejkrásnější trasou je ta nejtěžší. Jedná se o stezku k jezeru jménem Black Rock. Park se rozkládá na ploše s převýšením od 350 – 3 484 metrů, takže se připravte na strmé nekonečné stoupání a klesání, které Vám způsobí závratě!

Trasa k jezeru Black Rock

Jak už jsem nastínila, jedná se o náročnou stezku, i přestože vám některé zdroje, včetně mapky v informačním centru, budou tvrdit opak. Během výšlapu jsem málem vypustila duši, i když na vině byla nejspíš strašná kocovina, kterou jsem si dva dny nesla s sebou. Areál totiž slouží i jako grilovací park pro místní a právě večer před výšlapem, jsme zde potkali mladou partu Gruzínců. Co vám budu povídat, Gruzínci opět dostáli své pohostinnosti a víno, za doprovodu kytary, teklo proudem.

Stezka je otevřená od poloviny května do poloviny října, ovšem květen je stále nevyzpytatelným měsícem. Ve vyšší nadmořské výšce je stále několik metrů sněhu, který zároveň v nižších polohách taje a vytváří z jinak klidného potůčku divokou řeku. A přesně v takovémto období se nám do parku podařilo přijít. I přestože nás v informačním centru varovali, že stezka je neprůchozí, zkusili jsme naše štěstí a vyrazili. Jak se později ukázalo, divoká řeka bez mostů pro nás nebyla překážka, ale souboj jsme prohráli se sněhem, který zakrýval stezku. Těsně před jezerem jsme se museli v hlubokém sněhu otočit a jít zpátky.

Stezka vede nedotčenou přírodou Kavkazu, takže nepočítejte, že si doplníte zásoby cestou. Na první den s sebou musíte vláčet i vodu, která se dá doplnit až u metrologické stanice, kde se nachází pramen.

Celá trasa k jezeru a zpátky zabere 3 dny. První den vás čeká výšlap k meteorologické stanici hustým lesem, s převýšením přes 1 500 metrů! A zasloužené kempování s krásným výhledem u meteorologické stanice.

Během celého druhého dne vás budou provázet neskutečné výhledy na okolní vršky, které i přes letní měsíce, nesundávají svoji bílou čepici. A pro změnu vás čeká další stoupání. Před samotným jezerem, se nachází pohraniční stráž, kde se musíte zaregistrovat, nezapomeňte tedy pas! A poté dalších 30 minut k samotnému jezeru, které vytváří přírodní hranici s Ruskem. Následující noc můžete strávit v nově vybudovaném přístřešku a kempu, který se nachází u pohraniční kontroly, nebo sejít zpátky do kempu u meteorologické stanice a třetí den se vydat zpátky do turistického centra.

Vřele doporučuji si po výšlapu udělat zasloužený odpočinek v zázemí kempu, kde si můžete udělat vlastní barbecue z připraveného dřeva. Na nákup nemusíte chodit daleko. V okolí hlavní brány se potulují místní Gruzínci, kteří si krátí dlouhé dny neřízeným pitím domácího vína, a rádi vás zatáhnou k místním domů, kde si můžete za symbolický poplatek koupit domácí víno, sýry, zeleninu i maso. Pokud byste je náhodou nepotkali, což je velmi nepravděpodobná alternativa, nakoupit můžete v místním obchůdku, pár desítek metrů na hlavní cestě směrem do města.

40 thoughts on “Pěší turistika v národním parku Lagodekhi”

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